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NEW YORK CITY REAL ESTATE
City Living: Hell's Kitchen
By Miranda Siegel
Special to amNewYork
December 20, 2007
They've tried calling it Clinton. They've tried calling it Midtown West, or even Times Square West. They've tried to call it something other than Hell's Kitchen, but it's never stuck.
While the origins of its name are unclear -- some theorize it came from the name of a German restaurant in the area, Heil's Kitchen, and others say it came from the mouth of angry policeman witnessing a riot --the neighborhood was for many years known as one of New York's biggest slums.
The prominent gang activity, particularly the conflicts among the Irish, Puerto Ricans and Italians who lived in Hell's Kitchen in the 1950s, provided inspiration for West Side Story (shot slightly north of the area).
But the low rents and proximity to the Theater District -- as well as the presence of the Actors Studio on West 44th Street -- attracted a number of aspiring performers, among them James Dean, Sylvester Stallone, Seinfeld and Madonna.
In the last few decades, Hell's Kitchen has turned around. It's now characterized by numerous restaurants, a varied nightlife and a thriving gay community, fostered by its proximity to New York's major transportation hubs as well as the offices of midtown.
"The area's cleaned up a lot," said Avron Hyams, who grew up in Hell's Kitchen. "Ninth Avenue, for example, used to be really quite sleazy and rundown. It's only in the last five or ten years that it's become such a happening strip."
Find it
Hell's Kitchen is defined by the Hudson River in the west, Eighth Avenue in the east, West 57th Street in the north and West 34th Street in the south.
Real Estate
"It's wonderful to see Hell's Kitchen becoming such a vibrant and dynamic area," said Gabriel Bedoya, vice president at Corcoran Real Estate Group and a Hell's Kitchen resident for the past 20 years.
Bedoya maintains that the proximity of Hell's Kitchen to Chelsea and the Upper West Side--two highly desirable but expensive neighborhoods--has helped lead to an increase in its popularity.
Though many new condos are sprouting up wherever the zoning laws allow, the area retains its neighborhood feel through the preservation of its tenement buildings.
"The zoning here is mainly for low-rise buildings," said Bedoya. "Tenements may have been transformed on the inside but they are preserved on the outside--it's a visually distinctive quality."
Bedoya says that it's been important to keep up this aspect of the neighborhood's character.
"What's attractive about Hell's Kitchen is that you have large shopping areas nearby, but you can also shop the way they do in Europe: go along the avenue from the cheese shop to the wine shop, to the fish shop and then somewhere else to get your olives."
The high-rises in Hell's Kitchen are also very popular, especially since even residents of the lower floors can enjoy excellent views.
Those moving in include students who make use of the well-connected transport, foreign buyers after the central location, and many who reside primarily in Long Island, New Jersey or Connecticut but work long hours in the city.
"They may stay in their Manhattan apartment during the week, but also come in on weekends to take their family to the museums or the theaters," explained Bedoya.
As for the common perception that realtors avoid using the name "Hell's Kitchen" when marketing the neighborhood, Bedoya claims it isn't really true.
"New Yorkers like the name 'Hell's Kitchen,'" he explained. "With foreign buyers, I might start off calling it Midtown West, so they understand where it is, but after I will always explain the name and the area's interesting history."
For Sale
-$564,000 for a 483sf studio condo (350 W. 50th St.)
-$699,000 for a 813sf one-bedroom, one-bathroom condo (516 W. 47th St.)
-$739,000 for a 703sf one-bedroom, one-bathroom condo (350 W. 50th St.)
-$899,000 for a 875sf one-and-a-half-bedroom, one-bathroom condo (350 W. 50th St.)
-$945,000 for a 813sf one-bedroom, one-bathroom condo duplex (350 W. 50th St.)
-$1,395,000 for a 1090sf two-bedroom, two-bathroom condo (350 W. 50th St.)
-$1,175,000 for a 1005sf two-bedroom, two-bathroom condo (393 W. 49th St.)
Recently Sold
-$540,000 for a 476sf studio condo (350 W. 50th St.)
-$725,000 for a 611sf one-bedroom, one-bathroom condo (516 W. 47th St.)
-$829,000 for a 640sf one-bedroom, one-bathroom condo (350 W. 50th St.)
-$845,000 for a 861sf two-bedroom, two-bathroom condo (516 W. 47th St.)
-$970,000 for a 802sf one-bedroom, one-and-a-half-bathroom condo (310 W. 52nd St.)
-$1,475,000 for a 1091sf two-bedroom, two-bathroom condo (350 W. 50th St.)
-$1,750,000 for a 1192sf two-bedroom, two-and-a-half-bathroom condo (250 W. 50th St.)
To rent
-$2200 for a 372sf studio (393 W. 49th St.)
-$3000 for a 514sf one-bedroom, one-bathroom apartment (350 W. 50th St.)
-$5000 for a 1070sf two-bedroom, two-bathroom apartment (350 W. 50th St.)
-Contact: Gabriel Bedoya at Corcoran, 212-893-1734.
TO EAT
When it comes to food, Hell's Kitchen really is just one big kitchen -- the area boasts an extraordinarily high density of eateries of all sorts, including some of the most diverse ethnic cuisines crammed into a 20-block span.
Ariana
Check out that big neon sign shaped like Afghanistan in the front window--Ariana is one of only a handful of Afghan restaurants in New York, and it certainly holds its own. Aromatic lamb platters and tender chicken kebabs are obvious choices, but the leek and potato stuffed bolanee (fried turnovers), fried pumpkin covered in tart yogurt and vegetarian curries are all delicious, too. 787 Ninth Ave. between 52nd and 53rd streets. 212-262-2323
99¢ Fresh Pizza
At last, bargain pizza! How exhilarating it is to fork over a single buck and receive a hot slice in return. And the taste? As one patron remarked, "It's got everything it needs, and it goes right down the hatch." $2.75 for two slices and a soda; 50¢ gets you a coffee or a donut. 579 Ninth Avenue at 41st Street 212-268-1461
Little Pie Company
If you've been wondering where all those delightful baked goods showing up at the office parties have been coming from, you've found it. Here you can enjoy their Sour Cream Apple Walnut Pie, Applesauce Carrot Cake iced with delicate cream cheese frosting or Florida Key Lime Pie, which looks like a little pool of pale green heaven encased in a luscious buttery crust. 424 W. 43rd St. 212-736-4780
Amy's Bread
You know you're in a good bakery when the kitchen's not only visible, but practically on display -- there's a window revealing Amy's kitchen to everyone in the street. This pint-sized bakery is almost always jammed, and a line out the door is hardly unusual; try the sandwiches, cupcakes and homemade hot chocolate. 672 Ninth Ave. 212-977-2670
Queen of Sheba
Queen of Sheba is a welcome addition to a city notoriously bereft of Ethiopian eateries. Seat yourself in a tiny chair at one of the basket tables and order the combination sampler: a variety of creamy, earth-toned dishes with smoky spices arranged on an unfolded piece of spongy injera bread. 650 10th Ave. at 45th Street 212-397-0610
Kyotofu
A slick, modern Japanese dessert and cocktail bar that also serves small dishes, Kyotofu offers sweets fashioned from unusual ingredients presented in stylish arrangements. Desserts made from tofu, sesame, agar jelly and fruit in various forms can be ordered individually or as part of a sampler. Kyotofu also has a large selection of sake and Japanese liquor, among other drinks. 705 Ninth Ave. 212-974-6012
Taboon
A Mediterranean restaurant serving classic dishes in creative and whimsical forms, Taboon is stylish and upscale without any trace of snootiness--the service is reliable and the atmosphere's relaxed. The warm herb-dusted bread goes perfectly the selection of meze. 773 10th Ave. between 52nd and 53rd streets 212-713-0271
Soul Fixins'
Friendly service and shareable platters are served up at this soul food joint, where you can score good deals on lunch combos or side dish plates. 371 W. 34th St. between Eighth and Ninth avenues. 212-465-9192
Pakistani Restaurant
A brightly lit eatery with mint green walls serving "Pakistani, Indian and Bangladeshi Cuisine," Pakistani Restaurant serves turnips with goat's feet, lamb kidney, chicken and vegetable curries and lassis, among other dishes -- all reasonably priced. A curious booth selling films in a number of languages and other imports stands opposite the entrance. Open 24 hours. 478 Ninth Ave. between 36th and 37th streets 212-736-7745
Desi Deli
Five bucks for a heaping plate of Punjabi-style chicken tikka, goat curry or malai kofta, 24 hours a day? Enough said. 724 10th Ave. 212-399-9007
Daisy May's BBQ USA
This Texan barbecue outpost, stationed in a windy stretch of 11th Avenue wasteland, serves up a good selection of BBQ meats and side dishes without veering too far into yee-haw kitsch. Savor your ribs by the rack or half-rack, or order an entire swine for you and a dozen of your hungry buddies (at least two days in advance). 623 11th Ave. at 46th Street 212-977-1500
TO PLAY
A few Irish bars are sprinkled along 11th and 10th avenues while on Ninth Avenue the scene is much more lounge-oriented. Many restaurants offer enough drinks and atmosphere to double as nightspots.
Casellula Cheese and Wine Cafe
Casellula's an intimate and atmospheric spot with an excellent, creative wine selection. The artisanal cheeses, dairy-based desserts and small dishes are a delight -- who's going to argue with a menu that boasts a Pig's Ass Sandwich, a Goose Breast Ruben or goat cheese ice cream? Open until 2a.m. every night.
401 W. 52nd St. 212-247-8137
Vynl
One of a flashy Manhattan quartet, Vynl's kaleidoscopic swirl of color provides a backdrop for American comfort food, Thai food and drinks. Go through the retro entryway -- which somewhat resembles a giant washing machine -- walk past the wall-mounted records surrounded by mosaics of tiny mirrored tiles and head straight to the infectiously fun-themed bathrooms.
754 Ninth Ave. 212-974-2003
Bamboo 52
A "gay-friendly" sushi bar with attractive happy hour prices ($5.00 mojitos) and an outdoor seating area. Try the sakejito, which is exactly what it sounds like.
344 W. 52nd St. 212-315-2777
Landmark Tavern
Opened in 1868 as an Irish saloon, the well-preserved Landmark Tavern still has many of the same furnishings (as well as the same bar) that it did almost 140 years ago. Standing all alone on 11th Avenue, the place has a very old-timey feel, especially in the deepest, snowiest days of winter; you almost expect some street urchin to wander by, rub a little circle in the iced-over window and hungrily peer inside.
626 11th Ave. 212-247-2562
TO SHOP
Hell's Kitchen is brimming with bakeries, small clothing boutiques and grocery stores, but if it's the big stores you're after, you're close to Herald Square and Columbus Circle. American Apparel will be opening a Hell's Kitchen store in the near future -- an enormous photo of a female rump is already covering the future storefront.
International Grocery
Bins of dried fruits and technicolor spices, fig jams and Greek honey, giant blocks of feta soaking in milky juices and buckets of olives saturated in brine -- all complemented by an aroma so wonderful, you'll practically float. 543 Ninth Ave. at West 40th Street 212-279-1000
Delphinium Card & Gift
A gift shop with both classy and sassy cards, trinkets and high-end stationery. 358 W. 47th St. between Eighth and Ninth avenues. 212-333-7732
Poseidon Bakery
Founded in 1923, Poseidon is still owned and run by the same family (now in the fourth generation), who make their light, delicate phyllo dough by hand for both sweet and savory purposes. They create terrific milky galactobouriko; honey-soaked "bird's nest" (afali) and other flaky pastries; and sell goat's milk yogurt, imported jams and dried fruit. 629 Ninth Ave. 212-757-6173
Outcasts (St. Clement's Thrift Shop)
Outcasts is more than just a musty thrift store -- it sell special soaps, local art, clocks, frames and vintage clothing, among other goods. The whimsical decor is also a plus. 660 10th Ave. 212-974-0121
Giovanni Esposito & Sons
You can tell by Esposito's old-school shop sign (the store's been around for more than a century), which includes a picture of a pig licking its lips, that you can trust the owners. In addition to pork -- Esposito's premier meat--sausages, lamb, "Fresh Killed Chickens" and other poultry, an impressive variety of game meats are available by special order. 500 9th Ave. 212-279-3298
Empire Coffee & Tea Co.
It's a shame there's not more room to sit and have a coffee at Empire -- it's a relaxed place with one wall lined with barrels of beans, a super friendly and knowledgeable staff, and a great selection of teas to boot. 568 9th Ave. 212-268-1220
TO DO
There are a number of theaters near Times Square; along the river are sightseeing boats, ferry connections to New Jersey… and some of Manhattan's larger gentlemen's clubs. The Intrepid Sea, Air & Space Museum will reopen in November 2008.
Theater Row
On the Hell's Kitchen side of the theater district is Theater Row, a block of six renovated theaters showcasing a variety of works. 410 W. 42nd St. 212-714-2442
Mud, Sweat and Tears
For 25 years, clay enthusiasts have come to Mud, Sweat and Tears to take classes in both hand-building and wheel, rent studio space or purchase finished items. 654 10th Ave. 212-974-9121
Hell's Kitchen Flea Market
It's not exactly cheap, but the imported furniture and house wares, vintage clothes and other goods are fun to browse. The empty stretch of space is a perfect spot for the flea market, which claims a few blocks every Saturday and Sunday year-round. Look for the giant inflated Hell's Kitchen "devil" at the entrance. 39th St. between Ninth and 10th avenues 212-243-5343
THE BUZZ
San Francisco-based Kimpton Hotels announced last June that they are planning to build a hotel, called the VU, on 48th Street and 11th Avenue -- far from any other hotel in the area.
They claim that the area's renaissance, as evidenced by the proliferation of clubs and restaurants, will eventually make the area a desirable place to visit.
Based in a former printing plant, VU will come with the usual swanky amenities -- rooftop bar, spa, possibly a pool -- as well 360-degree views of the city.
If the hotel is successful, other hotels could start popping up in Hell's Kitchen, especially in the outer reaches beyond Tenth Avenue, still largely uncharted territory.
Q&A WITH AVRON HYAMS
Avron, who works in media investment, grew up in Hell's Kitchen and returned not so long ago.
Are there any "hidden gems" in the area?
Not in the true sense -- there's a lot of traffic here and not a lot of tiny streets where places can hide. My favorite place is Thai Basil on 56th and Ninth … it's inexpensive and the food's really good. I also like Afghan Kebab House on Ninth Avenue between 51st and 52nd Streets.
What's been a factor of change in the area?
The Time Warner Center, for one. There's load of high-quality stores there, a Whole Foods -- it really lifted up and revitalized the area. Before that it was much more drab.
What's the worst thing about Hell's Kitchen?
Rents -- especially since the Time Warner Center was built -- have gotten really high, and it's kept a lot of younger people out.
Are there parts of the neighborhood that have yet to change?
I rarely venture beyond Ninth avenue; it's still quite desolate and there's nothing really pulling me there. But I recall ages ago that Trump said he was planning on rejuvenating that whole part as well.
THE BASICS
Library
New York Public Library, Columbus Branch 742 10th Ave. 212-586-5098
Police Station
306 W. 54th St. 212-760-8300
Transportation
Subway: A, C, E to 34th St., 42nd St.; C, E to 50th St.; A, B, C, D, 1 to 59th St.
LIRR: LIRR to Penn Station.
Bus: M57, 31, 11, 10, 20, 27, 104, 10, 16, 20, 42, 50
Port Authority Bus Terminal
Ferry: NY Water Taxi, Circle Line, World Yacht
Crime stats
The Midtown North Precinct, which includes most of Midtown Manhattan, reported 0 murders, 9 rapes, 151 robberies and 232 burglaries so far this year. For the same period last year, there were 4 murders, 4 rapes, 216 robberies and 277 burglaries.
Schools
Alvin Ailey/Joan Weill Center for Dance, 405 W 55th St.; American Academy McAllister Institute, 619 W 54th St.; The Facing History School, 525 W 50th St.; Food and Finance High, 525 W 50th St.; High School for Environmental Studies, 448 W 56th St.; High School of Graphic Communication Arts, 439 W 49th St.; High School of Hospitality Management, 525 W 50th St.; Holy Cross, 332 W 43rd St.; Independence High, 850 10th Ave.; Professional Performing Arts High, 328 W 48th St.; PS 35, 317 W 52nd St.; PS 51, 520 W 45th St.; PS 111, 440 W 53rd St.; PS 212, 328 W 48th St.; Sacred Heart of Jesus, 456 W 52nd St.
Copyright © 2008, AM New York
